Riding across Wisconsin over miles of smooth pavement through sparse
traffic was a rather anticlimatic way of starting what was to be my
ultimate trip for the year. The engine hummed beneath me in a way only
an Airhead boxer at 75-80mph can. In the meantime, visions of the
journey ahead swam through my mind. I stopped infrequently when the
sudden stumbling of the engine reminded me we were short on fuel, and
once switching the petcocks to "reserve" I would take the next exit -
both to refuel the bike and myself. I settled for lunch at a gas
station A&W - meal of champions. It had been a bit cool out, and I
enjoyed being able to soak up some heat while I sat next to my bike in
the sun.
The highway eventually gave way to a state route, which led me through
Duluth and onto Minnesota Route 61 - a two laner that meanders along
the north side of Lake Superior through a number of small towns. As
usual I found myself well ahead of schedule and I pulled off into Two
Harbors, MN for a look around. This was the first time I had seen Lake
Superior - the last Great Lake for me to see. Several small signs were
followed to a lighthouse which offered some scenic views, even if the
day had become a bit overcast.
The lighthouse is now a Bed and Breakfast - and also claims to be
haunted. I experienced no paranormal activities as I climbed to the top
of the lighthouse, although the high-viz Olympia AST jacket I was
wearing may scare off ghosts as well as it scares of women at a biker
bar. I also walked out onto a nearby jetty and enjoyed the fresh air,
as an ore freighter came past and deftly maneuvered into the small
harbor. As I began to get harassed by a large swarm of flying bugs, I
decided it was time to get back on the road and quickly made my escape
back to the bike. I'm sure the locals were confused by the guy in
motorcycle gear running down the jetty flailing his arms in the air
like a madman. Note to self: take a shower.
A long walk back - maybe I should have ridden out here?
The rest of the ride was sadly annoying - slow traffic kept me from
making much forward progress, and the two-lane road coupled with long
strings of trucks pulling trailers made passing difficult. I settled
back in and sang to myself for the next hour:
Rollin' Rollin' Rollin'
Keep that Airhead rolling!
Why is traffic slowin'?
Again?!
(Yeah, I'm no songwriter)
My only stop was to grab some dinner - fresh cut fruit and some smoked
gouda to go along with the jerky in my tank bag. I continued on and
finally pulled into the campground at Judge C.R. Magney State Park just
past Grand Marais, MN. The place seemed to work on the honor system;
nobody was working the front office, but there were instructions for
filling out an envelope and making a cash payment. There was also a
campground steward on-site to make sure you didn't freeload, and to get
firewood for anyone who needed it. I quickly set up on my pine-needle
covered site and set about having dinner. Some friendly neighbors took
pity on the lonely biker and offered me a grilled hot dog and friendly
conversation.
As the sun began to set I built a fire for some ambiance, just as a
group of motorcyclists came rolling into the campground and set up next
to me. There was a friendly couple on a Harley, and their equally
friendly companion on a 1978 Honda with a barn-door Windjammer fairing.
After setting up, they brought their firewood over to my site and we
shared some friendly conversation, jokes, and cola around the campfire
before retiring for the evening. I also remembered to run off and get a
good shower - I didn't want to attract any bears who were looking for
human hands marinated in turkey jerky and smoked gouda. With my bear
spray next to my sleeping bag, I quickly fell sound asleep to the
occasional hissing and cracking of the fading campfire...
